Acanceh, Tecoh, Mayapan

            We visited three sites today: Acanceh, Tecoh and Mayapan. Yes, I know what you’re thinking “three sites in one day?” but really, it wasn’t as bad as you’d think. These were relatively tiny sites, and all were within a pretty short distance of one another. I like visiting smaller sites, I always feel like I don’t get to spend enough time at a structure to truly appreciate all the little things and idiosyncrasies that the Maya meant for the building to express. So when we rolled into Acanceh and I saw that it was a town square in the shadow of a Peten style pyramid, I got excited.

Acanceh was the most random thing I’ve ever seen. A Mayan pyramid just plopped down in the middle of a modern town, really? It had a forgotten air to ait despite its location though, as if none of the townspeople even cared to look at it anymore. There were 5 stucco masks on the first pyramid we visited, all of which portrayed a Jester god. In addition to the pyramid there was another structure further out in the city. It was an acropolis of sorts, and hosted amazing carvings which of course went ignored as well. Barely covered, these carvings had once stood out brilliantly but because of poor funding and lack of interest in the area INAH has not given the site a big enough budget to preserve its artifacts. It amazes me how a town can stand by and watch such a marvel go ignored like Acanceh has; just because it isn’t drawing tourist attention right now does not mean that with proper support and finances that it couldn’t bring the town a decent income.

            Nearby was Tecoh, a very simple Franciscan (however redundant that statement was) cathedral build on top of a Pre-Columbian mound. If that doesn’t get a message across to the Maya, I’m really not sure what would. Pre-Columbian mound indicates that a Mayan temple pyramid resides there. Basically, the Spanish came and built their temple right on top of a buried temple of a previous faith. They physically, figuratively and spiritually replaced the indigenous faith with one construction. The church was a yellow cathedral located alongside a mud-and-stick bull fighting ring constructed in honor of the town’s patron saint celebration week. The Church of the Virgin of the Assumption was an interesting example of Franciscan churches and their differences from the Roman Catholic churches I grew up around. For one, they’re simple: four white walls, Roman arches, wooden pews – the only extravagant feature in the place was the altar. It was located on the wall opposite the main entrance and was fully covered in gold leaf with cut outs where depictions of the Trinity, Mary and the patron Virgin of the Assumption were seated. The front façade was simple as well: two huge double doors made of wood and three bells near the roof.

            Our final destination for the day was Mayapan. I didn’t like it much at all – it was a miniature Chichen Itza. There was a miniature Castillo, a miniature group of 1000 columns, miniature sacrificial cenote. The Toltec influence was the same as Chichen, and it was obvious that the founders had either come from or revered the Itza. In fact, Mayapan was once allied with Chichen Itza and Uxmal; as the two latter declined Mayapan rose to power. The Cocom family who inhabited the site is believed to have come from Chichen and so the similarities are not surprising. It was an attempt by the family to glorify their past.

            If I had to pick, I’d say that Tecoh was my favorite of the day simply for the contrast to familiar life for me. I have never seen any kind of church besides a Catholic construction and the Franciscan style was an interesting contrast to the Baroque cathedrals in Europe or the stained glass, candle-lit, stone walled churches that I’ve always seen. Acanceh had such a sad air to it, and Mayapan simply brought back memories of tourist infested, disrespected Chichen Itza. However, to give Mayapan a bit more credit than I think I am here, Mayapan was deserted save for a handful of other tourists and I did get a chance to fully enjoy the substructures and murals and views from atop the mini-Castillo. But don’t take my opinion as truth – come visit yourself one day ;]

Hasta,

Dana